Nebbiolo is Piedmont’s hero variety, echoing pinot noir in growing challenges and diversity of style. Serious nebbiolo is aristocratic, its highpoint age-worthy Barolo and Barbaresco. More everyday versions (nebbiolo d’Alba or nebbiolo Langhe) are summer favourites, their sour-cherry flavours, bright acidity and gently persuasive tannins a favourite with grilled lamb cutlets. Australian “nebbs” run the same gamut of styles: David Freschi’s Ragazzi (featured) is so delicious he should consider bottling magnums.

Casa Freschi Ragazzi Nebbiolo 2013 $27

David Freschi is seriously into nebbiolo with La Signora ($50) and a new offering 2012 Nebbiolo ($55). His Ragazzi takes a fresh path, upfront and pure with signature aromatics of rose petal, sour cherries and liquorice. The palate is brilliantly buoyant, a light chill enhancing its energy. Peter Bourne, Qantas Magazine, January 2015